Wine production using biodynamic farming methods represents an increasingly higher proportion of the French market. As a result, the distinctive orange Demeter label and the green grapes on the Biodyvin brand are an ever more common sight on the wine shelves at retailers.
But what is biodynamic wine? Which parts of France produce it? And, perhaps more importantly, does it taste good and if so, where can you try and buy it? You’ll find all the answers in this guide to biodynamic French wines.
What is biodynamic wine production?
Rudolf Steiner created this technique of wine production that advocates farming according to the natural seasons and moon cycles. Pesticides and chemical fertilisers are frowned on and instead, vineyards attempt to establish a symbiotic harmony between the pests that are predators and those that make up their prey.
Are biodynamic French wines organic too?
Not necessarily, but given the natural process surrounding the production of biodynamic wines, they are usually organic.
Can any kind of wine be biodynamic?
Yes, France produces white, red and rosé biodynamic wines and Champagne makes sparkling biodynamic wines too.
Do biodynamic wines have good and bad years like conventional wine?
Yes, because all wine production depends on the soil (the terroir) and the weather. However, because soil quality is one of the main focuses of biodynamic agriculture, the terroir factor in biodynamic wines is more consistent.
How popular is biodynamic wine production in France?
Organic vineyards are increasingly popular and by extension, biodynamic estates are growing in number too. It’s estimated that there are around 1,500 organic wine producers in France, of which between 10% and 15% favour biodynamic methods on their estates.
Is it on the rise?
Yes, and very much so. Production is forecast to increase by 70% between 2018 and 2023 from 361 million to 613 million bottles of organic and biodynamic wine.
Where does biodynamic wine production take place in France?
All wine-growing regions have vineyards producing wine through biodynamic farming, although the majority are concentrated around the Loire Valley, Bordeaux and south-east France, particularly in Languedoc. Corsica is another big production area – over 22% of the island’s vineyards use organic methods.
Languedoc is something of a pioneer in biodynamic wine production since local farmers have been making their own vin de table or pif following natural methods for centuries. However, in recent years, production techniques have become more sophisticated and refined, resulting in better quality wines.
How do you know if a French wine is biodynamic?
Look for the certification, usually from Demeter or Biodyvin.
Are biodynamic wines good?
Yes, and increasingly so. They regularly win international awards, standing out among fierce competition from well-established labels.
For example, The Guide to the Best Wines of France 2022 published by Revue Vin Franc includes 3,000 organic and biodynamic wines in its total of 7,000. In the previous edition, 44 of the 3-star wine estates in France were organic with 15 dedicated to biodynamic production. This translates to almost 16% of the best wine estates, yet biodynamic wine production accounts for less than 1% of French vineyards.
Are biodynamic wines better than other French wines?
Yes, according to a UCLA study in 2021. The report compared the ratings of 128,000 wines in three French specialist magazines and revealed that organic wines ranked 6.2% better than conventional wines and that biodynamic wines were rated 11.8% higher.
How is the taste different?
Biodynamic wines tend to taste bolder than conventional wines and as a result, many connoisseurs consider them to be better. Professional wine tasters highlight the subtler bouquet in organic and biodynamic wines, particularly in reds where floral notes are more potent.
But as always, the proof is in the tasting!
Any recommendations?
The IWSC recommended the following in 2021:
- Sélection de Grains Nobles produced by Domaine Albert Hertz in Alsace. The IWSC judges gave this white Riesling 96 points out of 100 and praised its “firework display of fresh acidity”.
- Château L’Hospitalet Grand Vin produced by Gérard Bertrand in Languedoc. The IWSC highlighted the red wine’s “coffee and sweet wood spices”.
- Gewurztraminer 2017 produced at the Domaine Fernand Engel, also in Alsace. This white wine scored high for its “harmonious palate of tropical fruit, roasted pineapple, caramel and white truffle”.
Where can you visit biodynamic vineyards in France?
To find out more about how biodynamic agriculture works and of course, taste the wine, check out these vineyards.
Biodynamic wines in Languedoc
Gérard Bertrand – one of the region’s biodynamic wine ambassadors, Bertrand has several estates across the region including Close du Temple near Cabrières, where he produced the world’s best rosé (biodynamically) in 2019.
Château de Chambert – located near Cahors, this biodynamic vineyard has 65 hectares of mostly Malbec grapes. As well as tasting the wines, you can bike or hike the estate – don’t miss the resident Highland cattle on the way.
>>> Find out more about Languedoc wines
Biodynamic wines in Alsace
Domaine Becker – this vineyard has been producing wine in the Zellenberg area since 1620 and knows more than a thing or so about biodynamic farming. It organises regular ecotours.
Achillé – has been making biodynamic wines in Scherwiller for almost two decades and the visit includes a tour of the bio-climatic cellar.
Domaine Sohler – nestling in the heart of the Alsatian countryside, this vineyard makes three categories of wine and offers dinner in the cellar as part of a tour.
>>> Find out more about Alsace wines
Biodynamic wines in Provence
Château La Coste – organic rather than biodynamic, this vineyard near Aix-en-Provence provides culinary wine-tasting and cultural feasts – the estate is dotted with works by renowned artists and architects such as Matisse, Gehry, Niemeyer and Emin.
Château de la Guade – biodynamic techniques are behind all this estate’s wines: red, white, rosé and sparkling. Foodies are in for a further treat at the restaurants, headed by Michelin-starred chef Matthieu Dupuis Baumal.
>>> Find out more about Provence wines
Biodynamic wines in Champagne
L’Empreinte des Fées – bubbles, truffle and nature come together at this vineyard at the Domaine de Mondeville in Champignol-lez-Mondeville where biodynamics form the basis of the three types of fizz.
Domaine Apollonis – this century-old vineyard includes a musical soundtrack in its wine production. The first fermentation takes place to Beethoven’s Pastoral Symphony while pieces by Mozart, Vivaldi and Brahms follow suit as the bubbles mature.
>>> Find out more in our guide to champagne
Biodynamic wines in Burgundy
Château de Pommard – set in the heart of Burgundy near Beaune, this estate offers wine tasting experiences including one along the Route des Grands Crus and insight into biodynamic wine producing techniques.
Tripoz – a relatively new vineyard, yet au fait with biodynamic production, this estate near the pretty village of Loché produces 11 wines over its 14 hectares, mostly from Chardonnay grapes.
Find out more about Burgundy wines
Try biodynamic French wines on the waterways
Fine wining (and dining) forms an essential part of all our luxury hotel barge experiences. The selected wines at dinner can include organic and biodynamic options, often paired to perfection with the corresponding dish.
Discover these foodie delights on board a deluxe boat on your next holiday. Check out which hotel barge is for you and book your stay on the water. Start your search here
