In the land of fine wining and dining par excellence, the annual announcement of the Michelin stars counts as possibly the most important event in the culinary calendar. Every year, surprises (pleasant and not so) await chefs, restaurateurs, and diners alike, without exception – you can always be assured of twinkling newbies and memorable tumbles in the history of the accolades.
Three Michelin stars
The Michelin star system was born in France. And it’s here that you’ll find the most restaurants with three Michelin stars. In fact, in the 2023 awards, there were 29 3* Michelin restaurants in France. They join 75 2* Michelin restaurants and no less than 526 restaurants with one of the coveted stars, making France home to 630 eateries boasting gastronomy’s highest accolade.
According to Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide, the list of 630 restaurants “confirms that excellent, creativity and commitment abound in the world of French gastronomy”.
How to achieve a Michelin star
Naturally, the Michelin judges don’t give away all their secrets, but here’s what we do know about how to achieve one of these heralded accolades:
- 3* Michelin restaurants must serve “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey”
- 2* Michelin restaurants should offer “excellent cooking, worth a detour”
- 1* Michelin restaurants are described as “a very good restaurant in its category.”
Obviously, the food and restaurant scene has changed significantly since these awards were created and those descriptors written. I’m sure we can all recall if not reguarly frequent a restaurant we’d class as very good in its category. What we must remember is that the judges really are starting at a foundation of excellence, not everyday!
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Michelin stars lost
However, while the Michelin stars bring euphoria for some, they signal quite the opposite for others. In 2023, 25 restaurants lost a star, including Restaurant Guy Savoy in Paris and Christopher Coutanceau in La Rochelle. Both saw their three stars slashed to ‘just’ two, a particular blow to Savoy who had held his triple crown since 2002.
He joins the iconic Auberge du Pont de Collonges downgraded from three to two Michelin stars in France in 2020, an event that rocked the culinary sector to its core. Until that year, the restaurant, once run by the legendary Paul Bocuse, held the world record for the longest running three-star status, which it had held since 1965.
At the other end of the spectrum, some chefs ask to be removed from the judging process altogether. Also in 2020, Le Suquet stopped featuring in the Michelin star list. Three years earlier, chef Sebastian Bras had requested that his restaurant be removed on the grounds that he dreaded the inspectors appearing at any time. However, the Guide reinstated Le Suquet in the 2019 edition with two Michelin stars, surprising Bras who probably went on to celebrate his restaurant’s absence the following year!
Sustainable cooking
In line with heightened awareness of environmental issues, Michelin Guides continues to issue its “green award” rating. The symbol, a sort of green five-leaved clover, has been given to restaurants with “commendable environmental practices”. In 2023, eight more restaurants in France were awarded the clover accolade for the three sustainability criteria:
- preserve resources
- reduce food waste
- lower consumption of non-renewable energy
Fine wining and dining on the waterways
As Poullennec said at the ceremony for the Michelin stars in France 2023, “The chefs at the helm provide distinctive culinary experiences”. We love this nautical simile because, of course, you can experience a world of foodie treats on board a luxury hotel barge as you cruise along one of the equally amazing waterways in France.
Whichever river or canal you cruise, fine wining and dining comes as standard at your table on board. Regional specialties paired with their respective wines are served at dinner where you can dine under the real stars above you as you glide your way down river.
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